GARIJON’S
(8 MT. BOBCAT) TRIP FROM TOTTON, HANTS TO FIUMICINO, ROME.
VIA PARIS, LYON, MARSEILLE, NUDIST CAMP AND ELBA.
JUNE/JULY 1965 J.B.REDFERN
The
following logbook was first written by my father during his trip in 1965 from
England to Italy passing through the French canals with all their locks. Several
years ago he re-wrote certain passages which were unclear. Last year he died,
and having to take care of all the bureaucratic issues which come with
succession, I happened to find the leather binder he kept the logbook in. I
transcribed it into Word, only changing the odd word or town name which was
misspelt and adding the odd photograph taken by my father on the trip. I would
like to share it with other current or ex Bobcat owners hoping that they may
find it interesting. Following I mention lock-keepers but you need to read his
logbook before fully understanding my comments and of course, not all
lock-keepers are the same.
Certainly,
travelling down the canals now is very different than it was in 1965. Probably
less barges and more pleasure craft, less “surly lock-keepers” or maybe not!
One may not be able to moor ones boat next to the Eiffel tower today but may
have to go into a pay-to-use facility. However, pleasure craft are probably
given more consideration now. The other thing which I found remarkable is the
correct information the French authorities gave my father in 1965, whereby he
managed to get his 4.30 metre beam through all the locks and not have to turn
back after 120 cleared locks. Entente cordiale? He also took this particular
route because I remember him mentioning that the roof of a canal tunnel had
collapsed so he had to revert to the longer way. Also, today, one can go on the
internet and acquire a lot more information than was available to my father then
even if certain things have not changed like the mooring availability on the
Rhone. One wonders what colourful language he would have used in his logbook had
he encountered something like the Caen Hill locks in Wiltshire with 16 different
lock-keepers to contend with, all in the space of 400 yards.
After
reading the logbook, one thing I can say in defence of the lock-keepers is what
a shock they must have had at seeing such a strange craft approaching their
lock, especially in the early morning mist. Probably in awe they were expecting
the words “Take me to your leader” instead of a cordial “Bonjour”. So
their arrogance was a form of protection in case a green hand materialised to
help turn the lock-handle. I wonder how many bottles of Vin Ordinaire or Pastis
were poured into the canal, especially in the early mornings following convivial
evenings, after the bobcat had gone. Even in Italy some of the phrases uttered
by passers-by were “The Martians have landed” or “Wow, a flying saucer”.
However, as a Bobcat owner one was always phlegmatic towards such ignorance and
thus the guilty party never ended up below the waterline, much.
In Italy
the boat was first kept in Fiumicino, then on the river Tiber nearby. In 1967 we
took it down to a town called Formia which is in the bay of Gaeta about 110 km
south of Rome. Here it was moored in the old Roman port of Caposele. The
settings in Formia were much better than in Fiumicino, as along the coast, both
east and west, there are a number of scenic bays to anchor in. Specially one,
Baia di S. Vito, where there is an underwater stream coming out through the
rocks and where the Bobcat’s draft was a great advantage over conventional
boats. There are also a number of islands like Ischia and Ponza which can easily
be reached in less than a day. Capri and the Amalfi Coast are not that much
farther away either. However, today the boat population, in the area, has
increased to near saturation point.
The boat
gave our family a lot of enjoyment, especially to my brother and me. During our
summer holidays we would be left on it continuously, whilst my parents would
only join us on Friday evening returning to Rome on Sunday. Of course, Friday
morning was reserved for making the boat spic and span awaiting their arrival.
As my father trusted us, we were allowed to take the boat out during the week
and as there was an international hostel, Villa Laura, just along the beach with
a two week change over system, a great time was had by all. There were many
great moments we had with the boat, but if I have to remember one in particular,
apart from the hostel interactions, it has to be a return trip from the island
of Ponza to Gaeta with a strong South Westerly behind us with the Bobcat planing
most of a 30 mile leg, an extremely fast and exciting journey. My father was at
the helm and I was using the boat hook on the jib as a spinnaker pole but more
important, my mother was cooking pasta in the galley. The mind boggles on how
she managed in those conditions. I was also on board during the first avowed
moon landing. At the end of the summer we used to organise a dinner party with
some of the locals and several sailors, who were hired to crew the mini ‘gin
palaces’ in the port. With their contacts we’d cheaply buy fresh fish,
prawns, cockles, muscles and wine. The venue for this gala was the Bobcat’s
stern cockpit and, of course, our galley was better than the ones on 20 metre
motor boats; larger and with an oven. With a borrowed table, which fitted
perfectly for everybody to sit round comfortably on the cushioned locker seats,
fishy pasta and merriment was heavily on the menu. One year there was 18 of us
sitting down for the meal with the forward hulls sticking out of the water.
Thinking back, I feel my parents used to organise this to thank everybody for
keeping an eye on my brother and I during the summer.
My soon to become wife also liked the boat. One thing we use to do when sailing in clean waters is to throw one end of a mooring line into the water, the other end would be cleated and one would dive in and hang onto the rope. Being dragged through the sea one would get quite a nice body massage. One time my wife went in off San Felice Circeo. However, I luckily remembered that 18 miles further out between Circeo and Ponza there is a shoal where sometimes sharks were spotted, so I quickly hauled her in. Had it been mother-in-law I would have been taking all day!
The Garijon in Caposele
Harbour With Cicero’s Villa in the Background
The
Bocat Meets a Prout
Unfortunately,
my father’s health took a turn and so we had to sell the boat in 1981. The
last news I have is dated 1988 when I was informed that the cat was moored
somewhere south of Salerno. I had no say in the matter at the time, but I regret
my father selling the boat because I can imagine that my daughter would have
greatly enjoyed the Bobcat too.
One last
thing, in the logbook my father mentions Bernard who was hired to captain the
boat during the trip. Unfortunately, my father doesn’t give his surname.
Knowing full well that there must be thousands of Bernards who sail or motor on
boats, should anyone know him, his whereabouts or his surname please e-mail me
on gb.redfern@hotmail.co.uk. I
think he was from Dover but then moved to the South West coast possibly Dorset,
Devon or Cornwall and is probably in his late sixties early seventies. He was
also a boat builder. A needle in a haystack? Another thing my father use to
mention is the good rapport he had with Tom Lack who in 1965 handed the new boat
to him
Gary
Redfern
Sunday
6 June 1965
We, Bernard, John and Jack, in the catamaran Garijon left
Totton, Southampton at 03.00hrs. No wind.
Sighted Trinity House pilot boat then the NAB at 08.00hrs.
Wind very light still running on the engine.
So far used 9 gallons. Sighted two small sharks at 16.00hrs
and later the shore ten miles away. Saw
Le Havre at 22.00hrs but had strong running tide against us.
Had to wake up lock-keeper at 0015hrs. He
kindly opened the lock and we laid up in the port of Le
Havre. Tomorrow we will attack the river Seine.
Monday
7 June 1965
Had a good night's sleep and woke up at 08.30hrs. Took the
mast off and laid it over the tabernacle and
front stanchion. Sent cables to Mary Lou and mother. Got
inner tubes blown up as we decided that they
would be more suitable inside the locks with the barges
rubbing against us. Bought 22 litres of petrol.
Waiting for the tide but more important for customs. We left
at 15.00hrs through the Tancarville canal.
Went through 2 locks and 5 swing bridges. Lock official very
nice as he also rang ahead to keep the locks
open for us. Moored up at Tancarville, which is 14 miles from
Le Havre but had to walk 2 miles to buy 33
litres
of petrol. Encountered many petrol barges which we quickly discovered had no
regard for pleasure
craft;
wonder why?
Tuesday
8 June 1965
Decided to go through the lock at 03.00hrs so as to exploit
the favourable running tide coming from Le
Havre. Unfortunately, it started raining and kept up for all
of the morning so we all got soaking wet. It was
strange to be passed by a large cargo ship, normally seen on
seas on the way to Rouen on the river Seine.
Arrived in Rouen at 12.00hrs and we tied up at the Yachting
Club. Had to buy another 45 litres of petrol and
to register the crew with the police and customs. Rouen is
quite a large fluvial port. The weather greatly
improved in the afternoon and we left Rouen at 18.00hrs.
However, at about 20.15hrs I had my hat blown
off by a sudden gust of wind after which it started raining
in torrents and then it hailed for 15 minutes. Poor
Bernard, who had just had a wash, got soaked. We then decided
to stop and dropped anchor and had
a
good night's sleep.
Wednesday
9 June 1965
Weighed anchor at 06.30hrs. Quite a bit of mist on the water
and the current was flowing against us at
roughly 4 knots. We reached the first lock at 08.45hrs. Got
through the lock in ten minutes and saw sign
for Paris, 202 km. After the lock the current is now 3 knots
against us and we are making 12 km every
hour. Found a mooring at 12.00hrs in pretty Les Andelys.
Bought another 74 litres of petrol. The adverse
current is making us use a considerable amount of petrol.
Entered another lock at 16.20hrs and came
out at 16.35hrs. We have realised that it is better to let
the barges in first and then come into the lock
behind them. In this way we do not get the brunt of the water
rushing in when the lock doors are opened.
We are now 161 Km from Paris. We are pushing on to make the
next lock, 45 Km away, before dark.
Moored at 22.00hrs 300 yards from lock. Ate and went to
sleep.
Cover
of French Custom’s Boat Passport with description of vessel and Le Havre,
Rouen, Marseille and Fiumicino stamps
Bernard, Jack and John at Eling Wharf
The
Garijon in Le Havre
Thursday
10 June 1965
Woke up at 06.00hrs but had to wait our turn due to the
number of barges queuing up. Went into the lock
the second time round behind 6 barges. Cleared lock at
08.30hrs. Bought another 41 litres of petrol and we
were finally on our way at 08.55hrs. Fairly uneventful day,
we went through 2 locks. Still 20 km to Paris.
Friday
11 June 1965
Left at 06.30hrs. Came up to first lock at 08.20hrs. Current
still strong. Stopped and bought another 50 litres
of petrol. Left, but after 5 minutes, we hit a submerged log
which sheered the staff. Fortunately, father had
brought two replacement spares and we managed to do the
repairs. Arrived in Paris and moored just across
from the Eiffel Tower next to a very kind Dutch couple. Left
the boat and sent cables (telegram’s) and
postcards to Mary Lou and mother. Bought 4 sparking plugs
which cost us 14 francs. Also bought some
lettuce, milk, bread, oranges, cherries etc. After filling up
with water we left Paris at 13.30hrs. Reached set of
locks at 15.30hrs. Of the 2 locks 1 was out of commission and
therefore, there was quite a long line of barges
waiting. They were going to let us in with the second lot but
at the last moment Bernard sheered off
saying it was too dangerous. So we had to lay off until
19.00hrs. Finally got through at 19.20hrs putting back
our schedule. However, we are pressing on and hope to make
next lock and lay up for the night. Stopped
at 20.30hrs. We anchored, ate and then went for a walk before
going to bed.
Saturday
12 June 1965
Left at 06.30hrs and went into the first lock of the day.
This had sloping walls and there was no way to tie
the boat up and the lock-keeper ignored us. So what happened
was that the boat turned on itself due
to the current and we scrapped the rudder on the lock's wall.
In the end we had to tie up to the barge, next
to us. When the lock filled up and the door was opened the
barge we were tied to gave us no chance to cast
off and the barge in front of us started coming towards us.
We managed to cast off and pulled the boat back.
The barge missed us by inches but in our evasive manoeuvre
we, again, turned inside the lock and the keel
at the front of the boat hit the lock wall. I nearly died
there and then. Out of the lock we moored immediately
to see if any damage had been done. Bernard went into the
water to check the hull. Luckily everything
seemed alright. Had this not been the case the lock-keeper
would have needed to turn round on himself to
retrieve the lock handle from its new location. We took this
opportunity to change the plugs on the engine.
Went through another lock at 10.30hrs without any trouble at
all. However, the next lock also had a sloping
wall but as we were about to enter it the lock-keeper closed
the gate on us. In the end this was a good thing,
even if we had to wait for an hour for traffic coming the
other way to leave the lock, as there were only 2
barges in with us and therefore, we were able to ride the
current using the engine. Unfortunately, as these
locks are full of all kinds of rubbish, we got a shoe wrapped
around the propeller. These sloping walled locks
are a constant worry and one's heart is always in one's
mouth. Out of the lock the current is still strong.
We come to another lock at 13.30hrs. Tied up at Champagne at
20.00hrs. Had something to eat and slept.
Sunday
13 June 1965
We left at 07.30hrs and caused a bit of a stir at the next
lock due to the fact that we were tied to a crane
which impeded the barges coming in. Moved the boat without a
problem. Moored at a petrol station in Saint
Mammès and apart from buying 105 litres of petrol and 4
litres of oil also bought eggs and bread. Slipped
our moorings at 10.15hrs and have left the river Seine and
are now on the Canal du Loing. Cleared 14 locks
today with a happening; 2 barges, at a lock, waved us
through. Tied up at Neronville at a lock with a nearby
restaurant. Due to the day's happening we decided to splash
out and go for a meal, at a cost of 34 francs
including beverages. We decided to try and get through the
lock early the following morning so we all turned
in
at 22.15hrs so as to be up by 06.00hrs.
Being
overtaken by cargo on the Seine on the way to Rouen
Leaving Notre Dame, Paris, behind
One of the
many locks
33
DAILY LOGBOOK
Monday
14 June 1965
Left at 06.30hrs. Fortunately there is not much traffic and,
again, we were waved on by barges not once but
twice. The locks are more frequent and we are now climbing.
Stopped in Cepoy and sent cables to Mary
Lou and mother. At Bruge we entered the Canal de Briare.
Arrived in Montargis at 12.30hrs. Had problems
cashing travellers cheques because the local banks were shut.
Managed to change a £10 note at a hotel .
but got a lousy rate of exchange. Bought another 30 litres of
petrol and had the sparking plugs cleaned at
a cost of 3.70 francs. The locks are getting higher with
heights of 5 metres. We stopped for the night at
Châtillon-Coligny arriving at 19.30hrs. Moored next to the
lock ready for morning and went to a hotel for
dinner. The trip has now become annoying and nobody is
enjoying themselves. The main reason is due to the
lock problem. There are many of them and every one is the
cause of tension and nervousness. Went to bed
at
22.00hrs.
Tuesday
15 June 1965
Left at 06.30hrs. Experienced something somewhat special;
navigating on the aqueduct which goes over
the river Loire. We did have a slight mishap on entering the
aqueduct as it narrows and we scrapped the
side of the boat. If this is the only damage we will be
lucky. Stopped at 13.30hrs to have something to eat
as we cannot go on without a rest otherwise one gets tired
due to the nervous tension in the locks. Arrived
in Bannay and moored after clearing 23 locks today. Found a
restaurant where we had a good meal. Went
to
sleep at 22.00hrs.
Wednesday
16 June 1965
Left at 06.30hrs going through the lock. The canal seems to
have changed name as we are now on the
Canal Latéral à la Loire. This seems to be the worst day of
the trip so far due to the boring countryside,
the locks and having to remove grass from the engine. We
crossed the river Loire again at Le Guétin. This
time we had to clear a 10 metre lock to get onto the
aqueduct. At about 17.00hrs it started raining and a
very strong wind came up which didn't help when steering the
boat into the locks. Tied up at 19.30hrs. Had
to put an extra mooring line due to the wind. Our main
problem is our boat only has a draft of 40 centimetres
and a maximum freeboard of about 130 centimetres. Thus the
wind easily turns it round.
Thursday
17 June 1965
Left at 07.00hrs. Following a barge which let us through. It
was the same barge which had kindly helped us
to moor the night before. Stopped at Decize at 10.30hrs. Had
to walk for 2 km to find the shops as not all
the towns are near the canal. Bought groceries plus a type of
pie for lunch and some ointment for mosquitoes,
which are quite troublesome. Changed £40 and bought 10
litres of petrol. Tried to phone home at 11.15hrs
but got no answer so sent cables to my wife and mother. A
policeman came into one of the shops and
wanted to know what we were doing and where we came from. We
hope to make Lyon by Sunday. I am
considering leaving the boat in Marseille due to the lack of
time I have off work. Tied up at 19.30hrs.
Friday
18 June 1965
Left at 07.00hrs but have to go slow because there is so much
dirt and grass in the canal. We are also
being held up by the barges and of course the locks. Arrived
in Digoin, crossing another aqueduct over the
Loire, at 14.30hrs and stopped because we are all extremely
tired especially Bernard who is at the wheel
12 hours a day. Since this morning we cleared 23 locks, which
must be a record. Managed to phone home
and bought another 87 litres of petrol. We went to a hotel
for a meal. This is the only day where we have had
a rest, if you can call it that. What we really need is a
couple of days. Will attack the canal again tomorrow.
From a rough calculation we have made, Digoin is approximately 574 miles
from Southampton.
A
view of a canal which soon becomes boring
Overflow system nearing a lock
Descending
inside the lock
Saturday
19 June 1965
Left Digoin at 06.30hrs and did 17 locks. We are now on the
Canal du Centre. Met up with the usual barge
who got stuck in the mud and turned us around in mid stream. Eventually we managed to pass
it. It was
not a very exciting day even if we did pass some gypsies but
they were not offensive. Since Paray-le-Monial
we have started heading north which feels wrong. However, the
chart tells us otherwise. Reached Montceau
Les Mines where I jumped off the boat and bought some
groceries and cigarettes. We tied up at a lock at
19.30hrs.
Sunday
20 June 1965
Departed at 07.00hrs. Today we passed 29 locks which was
exceptional. In one of the locks we dropped 12
metres and three other locks were automatic. The weather is
very hot and I am getting fed up of seeing locks
and in many cases having to help the lock-keeper to turn the
infamous handle. We arrived at Chagny at
19.30hrs. Had a wash and went for a meal. Went to bed at
22hrs.
Monday
21 June 1965
Left at 06.00hrs but had to wait for 1½ hours while 3 barges
went through the lock. We then had to wait for
another barge coming in the opposite direction but this
proved a help as the 3 barges heading our way
distanced themselves from us, thus they didn't hold us up. We
have again started travelling in a southerly
direction. Arrived in Chalon-sur-Saône at 13.30hrs. After
clearing a lock, which dropped about 14 metres, we
reached the Saone river. What a relief, as the current is in
our favour and is a good thing for the poor engine.
Bernard went into the cabin and dropped off to sleep. I think
it is nervous strain more than anything else. We
stopped at Tournus at 16.00hrs and bought more groceries.
Arrived in Mâcon at 20.00hrs.
Tuesday
22 June 1965
Left Mâcon at 05.30hrs and cleared 4 locks before reaching
Lyon at 13.00hrs. In the third lock we nearly had
an accident with a barge. We were at the back of the lock
waiting for the barges in front to leave when we
were sucked into the wake of the propeller of the barge ahead
of us. We only just avoided his propeller. In
Lyon we could not find a decent place to moor. In the end we
found somewhere and left the boat, made a
telephone call to a worried mother, cabled Mary Lou and
bought a few things which we found to be more
expensive than in other places. So much for France's second
city. At the first lock out of Lyon we met a real
bastard
of a lock-keeper. Even if we tipped him 3 francs he still kept on playing
around. I intend writing to
Paris and report him. The awful thing is that you cannot say
anything to hurt their feelings otherwise they
would really make your life a misery as they all posses
telephones. Finally came out of this lock and met
or rather the Rhone met us. It certainly is frightening.
After about 10 minutes we passed a tanker coming
upstream and took a beating from his backwash. 10 km further
down the sparking plugs got oiled up, but, in
midstream, we managed to change them. We decided to stop
earlier as it is difficult to find moorings. Stopped for the night at Vienne.
Bought 50 litres of petrol.
Wednesday
23 June 1965
Left at 05.40hrs and for the first 100 km the river was like
a mountain torrent. They say that the river is not
like the book describes it because a lot of work has been
done to it. We didn't get the opportunity to see this
new work. The first lock we reached was at Valence. They seem
to all have 12 metre drops. In the second lock
we had another problem. Coming out there was tree trunks,
pieces of wood and carcasses, unfortunately
not of Lyonaise lock-keepers, in the water. The wind was
strong, intensified by the high walls of the lock,
turned the boat round. We had to fight to keep the pieces of
wood away from the engine. Finally we decided
to reverse out. It is the first lock we have reversed out of and I hope
it will be the last. We pushed on to the
next lock but had to wait for 3 boats. When we got in we tied
up to a tanker. These people are altogether
different as they helped us in every way. We exited the lock
without any hazards. After another 24 km down
the river we came to the biggest lock in the world, the Bollène
lock. We recognised the 3 boats from the
previous lock and realised they had been waiting for us. Even
the lock-keeper was nice and after a colossal 23
metre long drop, we exited with no problems. Due to the fact
that we could not find any moorings along this
stretch, we tied up under a bridge. Today we covered 160 km
(100 miles) which is good going.
As
we come up to an aqueduct over the river Loire. Will we fit?
Slightly out
of focus inside of a lock
Waiting
our turn, don’t know where and don’t’ know when, suggestions?
Thursday
24 June 1965
Left at 06.30hrs. Still on the Rhone we passed Avignon but
didn't sing the song under the bridge. Arrived at
Arles at 11.30hrs. Found a mooring and bought 30 litres of
petrol. Started on the last canal at 12.30hrs and
passed a very antiquated lock. The lock-keeper was surly and
I had to give him 10 francs. We continued along
the canal and came upon a weed-cutter. Fortunately there was
no delay. Met another bastard
lock-keeper, he
proved to be the last. We finally left the canal and moored
in the harbour alongside a fishing boat for the night
at 18.30 hrs. I notice everybody is getting on each other's
nerves. I cannot see the time to get to Rome.
Friday
25 June 1965
Ceremoniously threw the inner tubes away and brought out the
new fenders. We put the mast up with the
help of 2 fishermen. It was nice to meet people like them. We
left at 11.30hrs and sailed to Marseilles. The
wind was not very favourable and we had to tack all the way.
Again there has been an outbreak of nerves. Got
into Marseille at 21.00hrs. It is awful when you don't know
where you are. Entered a port but had to leave as
I think it was the commercial one. We finally moored at
22.30hrs very tired and dejected in the old port.
Saturday
26 June 1965
Had an abrupt awakening as we had to leave our mooring as it
belonged to a fisherman who told us to go, in
not so friendly terms. As quite a number of people speak
Italian in Marseille and, as the first words in Italian
learnt by me were in an Italian rugby changing-room, I was
able, as we left, to give him an
extremely
passionate rendering of not so colloquial Italian nouns and
adjectives. It was probably the nervousness of the
last few days topped up with all the unfriendly lock-keepers
which produced this soliloquy. We found another
mooring at 05.00hrs. Later we went to customs, bought charts,
petrol (50 litres) and groceries. Slept the rest of
the morning and went out to lunch where we were taken to the
cleaners for 93 francs. Because the mooring
was dirty we left the old port at 17.45hrs and moored 3 miles
south of Marseille near a beach. We are going
to leave at 05.00hrs of the next morning and try to get to
Elba if the weather holds.
Sunday
27 June 1965
Left at 06.30hrs under sail but winds are weak. Set our first
course at 205˚ then at 08.30hrs changed it to
110˚. Changed course again at 09.45hrs to 175˚ to
round Ile de Riou. We then went back to course 110˚
again. At 19.00hrs we decided to run into Cape Sicié as the
wind had become quite strong. We anchored
in the bay and surprisingly discovered that there was a
nudist camp up on the rocks and on the beach. We
had previously decided to sail through the night but we would
have had the wind in our teeth so we decided
to stay the night, certainly not because of the nudist
ladies. Pity the wind wasn't a Mistral as it would have
carried
us swiftly towards Corsica.
Monday
28 June 1965
Left at 06.10hrs, no stowaways. Had to use the engine as the
wind had completely died down. At 10.30hrs
encountered thick fog which lasted until 12.00hrs. Wind
appeared so we hoisted sail and set a course for 100˚.
Lost sight of the French coast at 15.30hrs. Have begun the longest
stretch of our sea journey, roughly 130
miles. We have started our watch system again of 4 hours
each. Sighted aircraft carrier at 15.00hrs. At
16.00hrs a French gunboat came up to us at full speed. At the
time we were on course 110˚ but they told us to
change to course 90˚ as we were on their shooting range.
They didn't ask us for our course or even stop. We
pressed on with a favourable force 4 wind. At about 18.00hrs
the sea got quite choppy so we hove to at
18.45hrs. In turn we all had something to eat. After the meal
was over we went back on our course of 90˚. I
took the first watch from 21.30hrs to 01.30hrs. During this
watch a north westerly wind freshened up and was
sending us along at about 5 knots. Bernard, not keeping to
our 4 hour watch, came up at 00.30hrs.
Tuesday
29 June 1965
Took back over from Bernard at 03.20hrs. We still have a nice
breeze. Father relieved me at 05.45hrs and
the wind dropped at 07.40hrs. So we were running on the
engine and there was a little fog about. At 11.00hrs
the wind freshened up but so did the sea. Both my father and
I felt sea-sick and the boat took a real bashing
which lasted all day; missing the lock-keepers! Sighted
Corsica at 18.30hrs and ran into L'Ile Rousse port.
There were 4 other yachts moored there. We were going to go
on but as we felt lousy we decided to stay the
night.
Of course, Bernard was as fit as a fiddle. Went to bed at 22.30hrs.
Wednesday
30 June 1965
Got up at 07.00hrs and tried to find some water. There was a
café on the quayside but the woman, who was
washing the pavement with a hose, as soon as she saw me
approaching with two plastic jerry cans ran
back into the bar and closed both the hose and the door.
Maybe she is married to an ex lock-keeper. Took
the boat to the other side of the harbour and bought 30
litres of petrol, some groceries and managed to get
water. Left L'Ile Rousse at 09.25hrs but had a headwind and
the engine was being taxed too much. We put
up sail at 11.30hrs and tacked for nearly 7 hours. We tried
the engine again but there was something wrong
with it. We finally cleared the island of Giraglia at
22.00hrs. Apart from the headwind I think we were also
heading against a current. Set a course for 130˚ hoping
that we will get a reasonable wind as we intend sailing
all night. Unfortunately, no wind so we put the engine on at
23.15hrs and luckily it worked again. It may have
had
a blockage which cleared itself.
Thursday
1 July 1965
Motored all night. Went to bed at 04.00hrs after Bernard took
over. Arrived in Elba at 06.30hrs. Called in at
Marina di Campo which is on the south side of the island. It
is a very nice place and it would be nice to come
here for a holiday. Bought another 50 litres of petrol, sent
cables and left there at 09.45. Used the engine to
get clear of Elba. There is a light breeze and we are hoping
to see the Italian coast by 18.00hrs. I hope we get
a decent wind as we have not had one since leaving Marseille.
We set a course of 130˚ and at 18.45hrs we
sighted Isola del Giglio and then the Argentario Rock. We
have to motor some of the way and use the sail
when the wind comes up. We pass to the east of Isola di
Giannutri at 23.00hrs. We change course but need
not stare at the compass all the time because we have started
to see the Civitavecchia lighthouse. No wind
so
we have to motor.
Friday
2 July 1965
Arrived in Civitavecchia harbour at 10.15hrs. We bought
another 50 litres of petrol and I rang home to let them
know where we are. Left Civitavecchia at 12.00hrs and headed
for our final destination. There is a very light
wind and we have to use the engine. We are travelling
parallel to the shore but still use the compass. We
arrive at our final destination, Fiumicino, at 22.15hrs with
the engine playing up in the canal. We moor on the
high quayside the other side of the canal from the fishing
fleet. There to meet us is my wife, Mary Lou, and my
two sons, Gary and Johnny. My father and I head for Rome
whilst Bernard says he prefers to stay on the boat;
probably cannot wait to see the back of us, at least for a
night.
TOTAL PETROL USED: 847 LITRES